April 3, 2013
Hello my beauties, today we are going to talk about smoky eyes. Everyone wants them, and everyone is equally afraid to try them. Many people fall victim to smearing black eyeshadow all over their eyes and ending up with a “raccoon eyes” result.
Here’s the solution: smoky eyes don’t always mean black eye shadow. Every skin tone has a shade of shadow that gives the effect of a smoky eye, and that’s not always black. If you’re an expert, then by all means, go ahead with the blackest shadows money can buy. For the rest of us, here’s a cheat sheet to help pick the right shade of smoky for your skin tone.
MY GOLDEN RULE FOR ALL SKIN TONES:
The darker the shadow, the more MATTE it should be. Stay away from frosty blacks to avoid shadow fallout and muddiness.
If you are super pale, (including many Asian skin tones) then you have to be especially careful with dark eye shadows. I suggest sticking to varying shades of grey. Feline or Incubus shadows by Illamasqua are perfect for you.
Sweep a light grey all over the lid, buff in a dark grey into the crease. Line your water line with a dark grey pencil. Dot the inner corners of your eyes with a pale, shimmering silver.
If you are medium-skinned, swap out your black shadow for dark plums. Makeup For Ever Eye Shadow in #160 is a winner. Pat a lavender or silver shadow on the lid, and buff in a dark, MATTE plum color in the crease. Line your waterline with a black pencil.
Olive and Medium-Dark skin tones usually have golden undertones. What goes with golden? Deep, dark teal. Plumage by MAC is a gorgeous matte blackened-teal that will give you a soft, smoky eye. Pat a frosty dark grey on the lid. Buff the dark matte teal in your crease. Use a black pencil in your waterline and you’re set.
If you have dark skin, you can totally get away with using a matte black eye shadow like Crave by Urban Decay. If you aren’t feeling confident you can always substitute the black for a rich brown or even a velvety maroon like Inglot’s Matte #326. Pat a shimmery brown all over your lid then buff the dark matte brown (or maroon) into your crease. Fill the waterline with a black pencil and you’re set.
Deep dark skin tones like Alek Wek almost always need a rich black eye shadow to intensify even an every-day look. To off-set the black in the crease, I suggest patting a metallic eyeshadow all over your eye lid. The bright metal pigment will push your eyelids forward while the black eyeshadow will deepen your crease, giving you a beautiful 3-dimensional look. You can’t go wrong with MAC’s Woodwinked eye shadow and Urban Decay’s matte black shadow in Crave.