Hello my beauties, today we are going to talk about smoky eyes. Everyone wants them, and everyone is equally afraid to try them. Many people fall victim to smearing black eyeshadow all over their eyes and ending up with a “raccoon eyes” result.
Here’s the solution: smoky eyes don’t always mean black eye shadow. Every skin tone has a shade of shadow that gives the effect of a smoky eye, and that’s not always black. If you’re an expert, then by all means, go ahead with the blackest shadows money can buy. For the rest of us, here’s a cheat sheet to help pick the right shade of smoky for your skin tone.
MY GOLDEN RULE FOR ALL SKIN TONES:
The darker the shadow, the more MATTE it should be. Stay away from frosty blacks to avoid shadow fallout and muddiness.
If you are super pale, (including many Asian skin tones) then you have to be especially careful with dark eye shadows. I suggest sticking to varying shades of grey. Feline or Incubus shadows by Illamasqua are perfect for you.
Sweep a light grey all over the lid, buff in a dark grey into the crease. Line your water line with a dark grey pencil. Dot the inner corners of your eyes with a pale, shimmering silver.
If you are medium-skinned, swap out your black shadow for dark plums. Makeup For Ever Eye Shadow in #160 is a winner. Pat a lavender or silver shadow on the lid, and buff in a dark, MATTE plum color in the crease. Line your waterline with a black pencil.
Olive and Medium-Dark skin tones usually have golden undertones. What goes with golden? Deep, dark teal. Plumage by MAC is a gorgeous matte blackened-teal that will give you a soft, smoky eye. Pat a frosty dark grey on the lid. Buff the dark matte teal in your crease. Use a black pencil in your waterline and you’re set.
If you have dark skin, you can totally get away with using a matte black eye shadow like Crave by Urban Decay. If you aren’t feeling confident you can always substitute the black for a rich brown or even a velvety maroon like Inglot’s Matte #326. Pat a shimmery brown all over your lid then buff the dark matte brown (or maroon) into your crease. Fill the waterline with a black pencil and you’re set.
Deep dark skin tones like Alek Wek almost always need a rich black eye shadow to intensify even an every-day look. To off-set the black in the crease, I suggest patting a metallic eyeshadow all over your eye lid. The bright metal pigment will push your eyelids forward while the black eyeshadow will deepen your crease, giving you a beautiful 3-dimensional look. You can’t go wrong with MAC’s Woodwinked eye shadow and Urban Decay’s matte black shadow in Crave.
Hello beauties! For those of you with extremely light and super dark skin, finding foundations and concealers to match your skin tone can be challenging. Unfortunately, not every makeup brand out there has a broad range of shades and it’s frustrating when you are at the makeup counter and everything you try either looks patchy, ashy or gray.
Below I’ve compiled a list of companies who cater specifically to your skin tones.
Dainty Doll by Nicola Roberts – This U.K. line focuses on makeup specifically for women with very light skin.
MAC Cosmetics – MAC is known for their extensive shades in foundations and concealers and also carries white pigments that can be added to regular foundations to lighten them.
Illamasqua– Illamasqua is also known for carrying an endless variety in shades in foundations and concealers and carries white pigments as well.
DEEP DARK SKIN:
BlackUp Paris This French line is specifically catered to women of color and offers a variety of shades.
Iman Cosmetics – Another brand specifically designed for women of color, supermodel Iman is the woman behind the brand. What I especially love is that she carries BB cream in a ton of darker shades! It’s very hard to find BB creams for dark skin, as this product was first created in Asia for lighter-skinned women.
Black Opal Beauty – Another brand specifically designed for women of color, what I love most about them is the amazingly low prices! You can score a foundation stick for just under $10.
MAC Cosmetics (some good foundations for deeper skin tones – MAC full coverage foundation has a black foundation used to mix if needed)
Illamasqua (very good deep foundations including a pure black)
TIP FOR PALE SKIN
WHITE PIGMENT- If you have a foundation you already love, a great option is to add a pure white pigment to your product. MAC sells their sheer Face & Body Foundation in White, but it’s only sold in the Pro stores. Click HERE and scroll to the bottom for a list of the Pro chstore locations worldwide. If you don’t live near a MAC Pro, you can always call the nearest store to you and have it shipped. Illamasqua also carries a white foundation in form of their ever-popular Skin Base online HERE. If you want sheer coverage, use MAC’s Face & Body White. If you want medium coverage, go to Illamasqua’s Skin Base in 01. These two products can really enhance your foundations and stay true to your milky complexion.
TIPS FOR DEEP DARK SKIN
BLACK PIGMENT- Similar to the pale skin/white foundation theory, your deep dark skin can benefit from mixing black pigments into your foundation. I suggest applying the foundation that matches closest to your skin all over, then contour the sides of your face with Illamasqua’s Powder Foundation in Charcoal Black. This will bring out the dimensions in your facial structure and give you an HD look. Illamasqua also carries their Rich Liquid Foundation in a black with warm brown undertones, and this can actually be mixed in with your liquid foundations to darken them.
DARK ORANGE POWDERS WITH SHIMMER- Applying a shimmer powder to your cheekbones and T zone will prevent the look of flat skin. I am obsessed with using MAC’s Magically Cool Liquid Powder in Cajun on my darker-skinned clients. The burnt orange undertones and shimmer make any deep dark skin glow perfectly. If you can’t find a specific color-correcting powder, look for it in form of a blush or a bronzer. There are many uses for products, don’t get stuck in the same rut!